Pierre Cardin (1922 – 2020)

“I have always worked in my own style, which is different from all others. It was always my intention to be different, because that is the only way to last.”

~ Pierre Cardin

The fashion designer known for his space age designs, Pierre Cardin, died on 29 December at the age of 98.  He launched his space age look in 1964, at a time when Andre Courreges (he of the boots) and Paco Rabanne (chainmail dresses) were also promoting the style.  It was also in the mid-sixties that Mary Quant was designing ultra-short mini dresses in the U.K. and Terence Conran opened up his first Habitat in London.  In the whole of 1964 Saturn was in Aquarius (sign of the space age), as it also is in 2021.  So could this year be the year of the space age, or a return to space age fashion?

 “I was very influenced by the satellites, by the moon, by the entire cosmos, by astronauts.  My first designs were based on the moon.”

~ Pierre Cardin

Birth Chart

It is not difficult to find this space age theme in Cardin’s chart, as there are several factors which point to it.  Firstly, he has Uranus (the ruler of Aquarius) in Pisces in his 5th House, which describes inventive, futuristic and original creativity and creations.  Uranus and Aquarius also represents the unisex fashions that he created.  He had the Part of Fortune and his I.C. in his 4th House exactly conjunct in Aquarius, re-emphasizing this theme: the style was the foundation of his life; he was rooted in the future, always thinking outside the box.  With 0 planets in Earth (strengthening the space theme!), his clothes were not always practical.

With the Sun in the tenacious sign of Cancer, his calling was concerned with the life of women.  His father wanted him to be an architect, but from an early age he was passionate about dressmaking.  Some of his dress designs have been described as architectural.  His Sun (creativity) was exactly trine his natal Uranus (the avant-garde) in his 5th House of Creativity, again re-emphasizing the themes of originality and space age.  Moon trine Mercury in air signs meant that he was able to engage left brain with right brain, rational mind with imagination; and the Moon sextile Venus was congenial for relations with women and in the world of women.  His ruler the Moon was loosely conjunct Jupiter in Libra, spelling success (Jupiter) in designing (Libra) for women (Moon), and the Moon sextile Neptune added emotional sensitivity.  Ascendant in Libra lent the last word in elegance to a designer, and Midheaven in Leo gave him the Showman Archetype, the confidence to show his brand.  Venus exactly conjunct Neptune produced exquisitely refined artistry and this conjunction in the 10th House closely trined Chiron in Aries in the 6th House – a career healing through art and creativity.  Jupiter was conjunct the North Node in Libra in 12th House square exactly Pluto/Sun (exact) in 8th House – a love of power.  It pleased him to have his signature on numerous items of merchandise.  But his Midheaven was exactly sextile his North Node, so there was no conflict between his conventional career and karmic mission.  He enjoyed creating a dress design per day.

Relationships

Cardin defined himself as “mostly gay”.  We do not have a birth date for his long-term partner and fellow fashion designer Andre Oliver, who died in 1993.  But in the early 1960s he had a four year affair with the actress Jeanne Moreau, and we are able to look at the synastry between them:

Her exact Jupiter-Uranus conjunction (her Entrepreneur) in Aries was exactly opposite his natal Saturn in Libra, which was very enlivening for him and inspiring for his work in design.  This was a constructive partnership (for as long as it lasted), with his Saturn trine her Sun, his Jupiter trine her Moon, his Mars sextile her Mercury, his Venus trine her Saturn and his Ascendant sextile her Neptune.  His Nodal Axis squared her Mars, so she would have had to assert herself; and his Venus/Neptune conjunction squared her Ascendant, which meant that there may have been some ambivalence, deception and paranoia – possible reasons why the relationship did not last.  But overall, it would have been a relationship which enhanced his life.

Death

There was no cause of death given, but astrologically there is an air of psychological completion, with the transiting Jupiter/Saturn conjunction from his 4th House exactly trine his natal Saturn in Libra in 12th House.

“It is a day of great sadness for all our family. Pierre Cardin is no more. We are all proud of his tenacious ambition and the daring he has shown throughout his life.”

~ his family

Aspects

The first aspect of the week occurs within the first hour of Tuesday (5th) morning, with Mercury conjunct Pluto at 24 degrees Capricorn.  This to remind us that although we have stepped over a threshold into the Age of Aquarius, there are still serious matters to attend to from the deeply Capricornian year of 2020.  Truth needs to be told, and words will have a profound effect.  Deeper motives may be revealed.  Listening too is important, and conversations may become cathartic, if sincerely transacted.

A necessary slowing down may occur on Wednesday (6th) with Mars moving into Taurus in the late evening.  Mars has held sway in its own sign since early July, and that energy has been very galvanizing most of the time (except for the period in retrograde motion).  But activity for its own sake has its limitations, and though Mars is not so happy in the earthbound sign of Taurus, the testing quality of this energy has its reasons and worth.  You may find yourself querying more often why you are doing something, and how to do it, e.g. working more resourcefully and more in alignment with planetary requirements.  Greta Thunberg has just turned 18, and with four planets in Capricorn she may have more grease to her elbow while Mars is in Taurus (it stays until 4th March).  Any enterprise on Wednesday/Thursday needs to take account of the new energy and attitude.  As Taurus rules the Arts, an aesthetic angle or a musical rhythm may need to come into the equation, for instance.

Another ingress takes place at Noon on Friday (8th), that of Mercury entering Aquarius.  That increases the balance of planets in Aquarius to three, with Jupiter and Saturn already there.  The asteroid Pallas Athena is also currently in Aquarius.  The Aquarian energy is gathering…Reality based Mercury in Capricorn as a collective mindset gives way to the futuristic, the avant-garde, the original, the inventive: all the qualities used to describe Pierre Cardin’s fashions and creations!  Look out for a surge in space-age related news items and influences.  Technology, too will flourish (although, curiously, Pierre Cardin did not like computers).

Yet another ingress takes place the same day, mid-afternoon, with Venus entering Capricorn, taking the place Mercury has just vacated.  Carefree Venus in Sagittarius gives way to a more sedate portrayal of love and affection, and the Arts.  Loyalty and stamina are more in evidence, after the more adventurous period of her sojourn in Sagittarius.  This too will help the efforts of Greta Thunberg during her stay here (the whole of the rest of the month, until 1st February).  Recent Januaries have seen a successful drive called “Veganuary”, encouraging vegetarianism and veganism, and this would be set to continue.  Thoughts may turn to the care of the elderly within the family circle, and the protection programme by vaccination of the elderly.  Last night’s special covid episode of Casualty focussed on the problems in the early stages of the original lockdown of discharging elderly covid patients from hospital back into care homes without testing them, and the havoc that caused.

Some inspiration creeps in later in the day, with the Sun sextile Neptune.  The saying goes that you can’t make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear, but the Sun sextile Neptune gives you the best chance of creating beauty and inspiration in your life.  If spiritual harmony and creativity are some of the goals and aspirations you have for the start of the year, you can safely cultivate them on Friday.

The early hours of Saturday (9th) bring a fractious square between Mercury and Mars into play, which means: minor irritations, minor cuts and bruises, and minor conflicts.  People may get out of the wrong side of the bed, and express their tiredness through mumbled expletives.  If this is so, might I suggest that a meditation can provide a re-set?  Though you may feel you want to make progress quickly, slowly is more holy at this time.  But paradoxically, after a refreshing meditation If you are centred, you may be quite productive, producing brisk work.

Some of the earlier irritation is smoothed over mid-afternoon, when Venus trines Mars.  The Venus effect is strengthened as Mars is in her sign of Taurus.  If there are other wars going on, the relations between the sexes will be harmonious, or the connectivity between your own inner male and female.  It would be a good opportunity for sharing and balancing roles, such as career and parenting.  And exercises of body awareness, such as qijong, may be helpful.

The week in bullet points:

  • Tuesday – serious communications
  • Wednesday – more considered activity
  • Friday – forward thinking; loyalty and resourcefulness; inspired creativity
  • Saturday – minor skirmishes; more harmony later