Mary Quant (1934 – 2023)

A leader of fashion but also in female entrepreneurship – a visionary who was much more than a great haircut”

~ Alexandra Shulman

The swinging sixties fashion icon, Mary Quant, died this week aged 93.  She was responsible for the slick haircut, the mini-skirt (you had to have the legs), and the daisy motif.  Those were heady days – Twiggy was the clothes peg for that look, and she was born the same year as me.  I remember, aged 16, wearing long dangly black and white clip-on Mary Quant style earrings whenever I took a trip to London!

Birth chart

Mary Quant had Venus, Saturn/North Node and Sun in Aquarius – if that doesn’t speak of fashion innovator, and mover and shaker, I don’t know what does.  She had a quick and incisive mind, from a conjunction of Mercury and Mars.  Jupiter trine Saturn gave her a shrewdly balanced judgement, but a T-square between Uranus, Jupiter and Pluto brought a love of power and a willingness to take risks.

Life and Career

Mary was born in Blackheath, London, and both her parents had obtained firsts at Cardiff University before going on to teach.  She attended Blackheath High School, and went on to study illustration and art at Goldsmith’s College, London.   It was there that she met Alexander Plunkett-Greene whom she saw as “a great wit and a dish”.  She described him at that phase of his life, saying he “swanned around long-haired in his mother’s silk pyjama top, trumpet in one hand and film script in the other”, and subsequently married him.  Initial work in millinery found her ambition understretched, and her desire to design fashion saw her start with simple designs in the 1950s.  She learned dress-pattern cutting at night school to improve her skills. They struggled financially until he inherited £5000 on his 21st birthday, when she set up her shop in the King’s Road, title “Bazaar”.  This was in the year 1955, a year after Coco Chanel re-opened her salon in Paris after the Second World War.  But Mary departed radically from French couture, taking her inspiration instead from the Mod movement.

She popularized the mini-skirt (the inventor is disputed), fashioning it after the Mini car.  It symbolized freedom for her and the young women who were the clientele of her age, another Aquarian theme.  She added pockets to skirts and dresses to her designs, so that young women would not have to carry handbags. Her short shorts became the celebrated hotpants; and she also invented the duvet (Aquarius also being the sign of the Inventor).

Her hairdresser was Vidal Sassoon who says he “cut hair like she cut material.  No fuss, no ornamentation.  Just a neat swinging line.”, and she was great friends with the designer Terence Conran and the photographer David Bailey, who says he will miss her greatly.  In her autobiography Wonderful Tonight, Pattie Boyd wrote about her wedding to George Harrison on 21st January 1966: “I bought a Mary Quant pinky-red shot-silk dress, which came to just above the knee, and wore it with creamy stockings and pointy red shoes.  On top, because it was January and cold, I wore a red fox-fur coat, also by Mary Quant, that George gave me.  She made George a beautiful black Mongolian lamb coat.”

Marriage and Family

Mary Quant declared in her 1996 Autobiography Quant on Quant that “Life…began for me when I first saw Plunket”, although they did have a turbulent relationship and he was rumoured to have been unfaithful.  He died in 1990, but they had one child together, Orlando, born on 4th November 1970.  She wrote in an interview with the Guardian that she was happiest when her son was born.  He had Uranus trine her natal Venus (an exciting relationship), and in his own chart he had an upbeat conjunction of Sun and Jupiter.  He has helped to supervise her collection at the V & A Museum, and supported her in other ways.  She has three grandchildren.  In later life, she developed a relationship with Anthony Rouse.

She died peacefully, with Jupiter sextile her natal Sun.  A high impact, full life, well lived.

“I mostly felt, my God, what a marvellous life you had, you are very fortunate…I think to myself, ‘you lucky woman — how did you have all this fun?'”

~ Mary Quant, 2012 interview

Aspects

It is a week of two halves.  The second half has some intense aspecting going on, while the first half is clear of aspects, but full of connections with the Fixed Stars.  So I will choose a star for each day early in the week to work with.

We can start, today, with Alrisha, the Alpha Star in the constellation of Pisces.  According to “Starlight Elixirs” by Michael Smulkis and Fred Rubenfeld (the text I shall use for all four Fixed stars):

“A balancing of this time transition into Aquarius can take place for many people with use of this star.  People who may be afraid of technology or who do not understand how to work with it will find that some benefits result in utilizing this star as many of these technological things are metallic.    There can be an awareness of how change takes place for people in a way that becomes much more comfortable and much more assimilable, particularly for older individuals.  Individuals who fear the future will find a soothing response from this star.”

Tomorrow, Monday (17th) focus can be trained on Petra, aka Alpherg, another star in the constellation of Pisces, which represents Beingness:

“This star can increase the ability to remember past lives and release sadness associated with them.  This can also be of great benefit with individuals who are suffering from a tendency towards addictive principles.  The unconscious aspects from past lives can be made much clearer, and a willingness to accept these truths and to move forward  with them can be enhanced.”

The next two stars come from Andromeda.  On Tuesday (18th) our Sun is aligned with the deep space spiral galaxy numbered M31 and aka Vertex, which represents Cosmic Consciousness:

“This galaxy’s influence enhances the ability to understand the long term purpose of humanity’s evolution.  This includes the ability to recall one’s past lives as different life forms, such as dinosaurs.  In some cases these remembered lives are extraterrestrial… but primarily incarnations in the mountainous regions of Earth, particularly the Himalayas is increased.  The ability to see the overall picture.”  This may be something you are working towards at the time.

Wednesday (19th) is favourable for tuning in to Mirach, the Beta star in Andromeda, which represents sound healing.  We are told by Smulkis and Rubenfeld:

“The ability to hear, to utilize the voice, and to release difficulties associated with the sounds one hears or speaks is strengthened.  A deeper connection to physicalness and an opening of the root chakra results.  The ability to hear the sounds of nature and the Earth will likely be enhanced as well.”  Bernadette Brady, in her book of the Fixed Stars, affirms the beneficence of this star traditionally: some of the ancient sources equate it with happiness.

So there is some deep food for thought, prior to the main aspects of the week, starting on Thursday (20th) with a Solar Eclipse and New Moon at 29 degrees Aries in the early hours of the day.  This may bring cheer and vigour, and a renewed sense of purpose.  It is a time to look to the future, as much as is possible.  It can certainly be a new beginning for you, even if it is just about re-organizing your lifestyle.  If a job is worth doing, it is worth doing well…The New Moon in Aries is one of the brightest of the year in terms of its potential.  However, being an eclipse increases the sense of it being a portent, together with the  square of the Sun-Moon conjunction to Pluto.  It increases the sense of having to let go of something, in order to create the space for what is new to come forth.

Around breakfast time, the Sun will enter Taurus, so more newness to be added, with a slightly different focus.  It betokens a time of the blossoming of the earth.  Gardeners will garden, artists will paint or sculpt, and dancers will dance.  So it is very much a cuspal and switchover day, embedding into a productive Taurean period.

But in the afternoon, the festive atmosphere (if that was experienced) may become more thoughtful and serious, with a square between the Sun and Pluto.  This is a deep soul-searching aspect.  It is the sort of aspect which can be looked upon as a gamechanger, or watershed.  So if you are in integrity, you may be able to influence what side the coin lands on.  Interestingly, at the same square last October, there was turmoil in Westminster when Suella Braverman was sacked, in the shortest Home Office stint since the 1940s.  She was later reinstated by Rishi Sunak, and is now under fire again, so could she be sacked again, I wonder?

Friday (21st) brings us the next round of Mercury stationing prior to turning Retrograde, in Taurus.  Be clear in your communications between these two dates, in order to avoid misunderstandings and loopholes.  Although technology can go awry, it can be a good period to upgrade such devices.  You may have developed your own strategies, according to past experiences.

A cheery note from Yasmin Bolland and Kim Farnell, from their book on Mercury Retrograde, regarding Mercury Retrograde in the Earth signs: “Anything that comes from the earth forms the basis of a great ritual while Mercury is retrograde in an Earth sign.  For example, you could use sacred stones, crystals and flowers to create a beautiful mandala while you ask the heavens to show you what you need to learn.”

The week in bullet points:

  • Sunday – healing technophobia
  • Monday – beingness
  • Tuesday – cosmic consciousness
  • Wednesday – sound healing
  • Thursday – new beginning; turning point; drama
  • Friday – communication glitches